I've made the decision that playing some game is better than playing no game. I've been enamored with Bob Cordery's blog and own his entire series of wargaming books despite only have played a handful of games. The Facebook page for the rules highlights a wide variety of games played. Hopefully I can add to the community and offer an example of a truly untalented painter enjoying the hobby.
I'm moving forward 3D printing and painting forces for the Colonial version of his rules. I can squeeze 25mm figures on 30mm bases. This balances my terrible painting skill with my desire to maintain a compact game. 3D printing my forces is also cheaper for me than buying lead or plastic figures. Assuming the printer is paid for through other hobby enjoyment or sales of other things printed (it is), a stand of 3 25mm cavalry figures (base included) costs me less than $.50 USD. I don't think I could get that kind of deal elsewhere. However, I have to compromise on detail to make this work. My 3D printer cannot handle some of the more detailed models at 28mm or smaller meaning I have to do the design work myself. I think this compromise is more than fair for most games.
This is my first attempt at designing units with a built-in base. I prefer the look of non-based units but, based units give the flexibility to be used in gridded games as well as free moving games that require units to be in base to base contact. All of my units are designed to print with significant overlap between individual soldiers. This improves their ability to be printed, reduces my painting workload, and provides a more massed look. The cavalry and line infantry will very nearly fill the base width, but no parts of them exceed the base.
I'm moving forward 3D printing and painting forces for the Colonial version of his rules. I can squeeze 25mm figures on 30mm bases. This balances my terrible painting skill with my desire to maintain a compact game. 3D printing my forces is also cheaper for me than buying lead or plastic figures. Assuming the printer is paid for through other hobby enjoyment or sales of other things printed (it is), a stand of 3 25mm cavalry figures (base included) costs me less than $.50 USD. I don't think I could get that kind of deal elsewhere. However, I have to compromise on detail to make this work. My 3D printer cannot handle some of the more detailed models at 28mm or smaller meaning I have to do the design work myself. I think this compromise is more than fair for most games.
This is my first attempt at designing units with a built-in base. I prefer the look of non-based units but, based units give the flexibility to be used in gridded games as well as free moving games that require units to be in base to base contact. All of my units are designed to print with significant overlap between individual soldiers. This improves their ability to be printed, reduces my painting workload, and provides a more massed look. The cavalry and line infantry will very nearly fill the base width, but no parts of them exceed the base.
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| 25mm tall figures on 30mm square bases |
The next step is determining which nationalities/conflicts I'd like to represent. I'm not opposed to getting into what-if scenarios and imagi-nation actions, but I'm limiting myself to one set of terrain for now. Doubling the amount of time painting terrain and designing two sets of trees/buildings/cover just isn't appealing right now. Perhaps eventually the forces will deploy to more exotic locales but for now all splendid little wars will all be fought in similar climates. I'm leaning towards a brown/sand board with terracotta tile roof and stucco buildings. This could be used from the Mediterranean, to the Southern US/Mexico, and even Spanish Colonies in the Caribbean or Pacific. I think this gives me the best "bang for the buck".
Expanding the range to include melee units is also a priority. I don't have much work done on melee weapons. Straight swords and spears are designed from previous ancient design work and are ready for lancer cavalry and sabre cavalry, but curved blades and 19th Century shields are not complete.
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