Deciding to not decide

I've decided that developing imagi-nations is the best way for me to handle colonial wargames.  This way I don't have to decide which nations, theaters, and conflicts I want to portray.  Bob Cordery's work seems to be able to handle several generations of uniforms from the major powers of the day.  I don't have bandwidth or desire to paint British uniforms with shakos from the Indian Mutiny through the scarlet tunics and pith helmets to the tan and pith helmets by the end of the 19th Century and enemies for them from each campaign.  

Bob's blog features Little War armies  (http://wargamingmiscellany.blogspot.com/search/label/Little%20Wars)  which I have emulated previously one this blog with Army Red and Army Sand.    It should be fairly evident that my Army Red is based on Britain c. 1880 and Army Sand is modeled on Egypt.  An Egyptian analog is a compelling inclusion in my project because they fought alongside and against Britain.  I will be expanding on this idea to develop two "European" powers, an organized "Colonial" force and a "Tribal" force. The colony will be the center of whatever narrative develops as it fights alongside its parent country against piratical shore/river raids and incursions from the rival continental power as well as against the parent country in its bid for independence. By creating 4 forces, I can fight a wide variety of conflicts.

Below are some uniform possibilities.  I like the paint colors I used for my Army of Five Rivers for an 18th C campaign. Assuming the Army of Five Rivers survived the ensuing century, it may have developed the following uniforms. 

Infantry in Home Service Uniform

Infantry in Campaign Uniform

The Red King will probably be reprising his role as well, likely modeled on Queen Victoria's forces.

Get on with it!

     I've made the decision that playing some game is better than playing no game.  I've been enamored with Bob Cordery's blog and own his entire series of wargaming books despite only have played a handful of games.  The Facebook page for the rules highlights a wide variety of games played.  Hopefully I can add to the community and offer an example of a truly untalented painter enjoying the hobby. 
    I'm moving forward 3D printing and painting forces for the Colonial version of his rules.  I can squeeze 25mm figures on 30mm bases.  This balances my terrible painting skill with my desire to maintain a compact game.  3D printing my forces is also cheaper for me than buying lead or plastic figures.  Assuming the printer is paid for through other hobby enjoyment or sales of other things printed (it is), a stand of 3 25mm cavalry figures (base included) costs me less than $.50 USD. I don't think I could get that kind of deal elsewhere. However, I have to compromise on detail to make this work.  My 3D printer cannot handle some of the more detailed models at 28mm or smaller meaning I have to do the design work myself.  I think this compromise is more than fair for most games.  
    This is my first attempt at designing units with a built-in base. I prefer the look of non-based units but, based units give the flexibility to be used in gridded games as well as free moving games that require units to be in base to base contact.  All of my units are designed to print with significant overlap between individual soldiers.  This improves their ability to be printed, reduces my painting workload, and provides a more massed look.  The cavalry and line infantry will very nearly fill the base width, but no parts of them exceed the base. 

25mm tall figures on 30mm square bases

    The next step is determining which nationalities/conflicts I'd like to represent. I'm not opposed to getting into what-if scenarios and imagi-nation actions, but I'm limiting myself to one set of terrain for now.  Doubling the amount of time painting terrain and designing two sets of  trees/buildings/cover just isn't appealing right now.  Perhaps eventually the forces will deploy to more exotic locales but for now all splendid little wars will all be fought in similar climates. I'm leaning towards a brown/sand board with terracotta tile roof and stucco buildings.  This could be used from the Mediterranean, to the Southern US/Mexico, and even Spanish Colonies in the Caribbean or Pacific.  I think this gives me the best "bang for the buck".

    Expanding the range to include melee units is also a priority. I don't have much work done on melee weapons.  Straight swords and spears are designed from previous ancient design work and are ready for lancer cavalry and sabre cavalry, but curved blades and 19th Century shields are not complete.  

Where I've been...

 I've been busy. I have separated from Active Duty and started a new job.  This involved moving nearly 1,000 miles and purchasing our first house. The kids are growing like weeds and we are blessed that we have remained healthy.  Between getting settled into the new job, home maintenance, and keeping up with the kids, I haven't had much time for hobbies.  I've been reading a lot of rule sets and think I'm still in the process of looking for my unicorn game.  I want something:

Gridded - probably squares, but hexes would be ok (its just harder to do terrain and show linear warfare).

Uncertain turn length - Not a I-go-U-go game.  I want my militia troops to refuse orders and give the initiative to the enemy. 

Simple processes - The process for activation, shooting, melee, and rallying should feel similar.

Unit Diversity - Elite, Regular, and Light regular infantry should feel different from irregular sharpshooters.  Militia should exist and be unique.

Solo - I need a game that I can play without finding an opponent.  After having moved and working remotely, I don't know anyone involved in wargaming.  

Small footprint - Table space is limited in the new house.  Especially table space out of the reach of my toddler.  I'd prefer less fiddly markers.

If you know of a game that fulfills the majority of my wants, please let me know.  

I have accomplished increasing my terrain for 18th - 19th Century.  Both of the following have been printed to fill a 2" square grid.  They are 1" tall when printed to fill the cell. The figures are rendered at 25mm.

Connected Rowhouses

Regular Infantry in the woods behind a small farmstead.

A small farmstead